Location:
Saint Paul, Minnesota
Status:
Permanently closed
Dates active:
1986-2022
Khyber Pass Cafe in Saint Paul stood as a testament to the rich culinary heritage and cultural diversity that has been growing in the Twin Cities for decades. Established in 1986, this beloved eatery played a significant role in introducing the flavors of Afghanistan to the local dining scene.
The restaurant’s history is deeply rooted in the immigrant experience. It was founded by a determined Afghan couple, Emel and Masooda Sherzad, who arrived in the United States searching for new opportunities and settling in Saint Paul. Drawing upon their culinary expertise and love for traditional Afghan cuisine, they embarked on a journey to share their culture through food.
In its early days, Khyber Pass was a modest establishment tucked away in a corner of the Mac Groveland neighborhood. Its menu reflected the Sherzad family’s commitment to authenticity, featuring a range of heirloom Afghani dishes prepared with care and dedication. The restaurant’s name pays homage to the historic Khyber Pass, a legendary mountain passageway along the border with Pakistan that has connected Afghanistan to the Indian subcontinent for centuries, symbolizing the fusion of diverse influences in Afghan cuisine.
Over the years, Khyber Pass garnered a devoted following among locals and visitors alike. The cafe moved to a more visible corner at the Grand and Snelling in 2002, and its warm, welcoming atmosphere provided a unique setting for diners to explore the flavors of Afghanistan. Signature dishes like aushak, vegetarian aush, murgh kebabs, sabzi korma, and bouranee baunjaun became instant favorites. They were celebrated for their intricate spices and bold flavors.
The restaurant’s success didn’t just end with its food; it also became a cultural hub. The Aminzai family’s commitment to community-building extended beyond their kitchen by hosting events and offering live music in the cafe to foster a sense of belonging for Afghan immigrants and the broader Saint Paul community.
Khyber Pass Cafe closed in 2022 after 37 years as one of the most beloved Afghan restaurants in the state. With each flavorful dish it served, the Khyber Pass told the story of Afghanistan while also contributing to the multicultural mosaic that makes up Saint Paul.
Ingredients
- 8 ounces yogurt
- 1 pound eggplant
- salt
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- vegetable oil
- 1 to 1½ pounds fresh tomatoes, peeled and sliced
- 1 jalapeño pepper, chopped
- 1 teaspoon chili powder
- ½ teaspoon black pepper
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
Instructions
- Put yogurt in cheesecloth and suspend. Let drain for at least 1 hour.
- Meanwhile, wash and peel eggplant. Slice into ½-inch pieces, then spread out on a board. Sprinkle with salt; let stand 20 to 30 minutes. Wipe dry.
- In a large frying pan, fry onion in oil until tender, then add tomatoes. Add jalapeño pepper, chili powder, black pepper, and salt to taste. Cook very slowly for 30 to 40 minutes.
- Meanwhile, in another frying pan heat vegetable oil; fry eggplant slices until brown. Remove from pan; set aside.
- In a baking dish, alternate layers of eggplant and tomato mixture. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water, cover, and simmer over low heat in a 300° oven for one hour and 10 minutes.
- To serve: Add garlic and salt to taste to drained yogurt. Put half of yogurt mixture on the bottom of a warm serving dish, then arrange eggplant slices over yogurt. Top with remaining yogurt. Serve immediately with flatbread.
